Visit Nara

Tucked down a side street deep in Naramachi is a restored machiya house with a modern, gallery atmosphere. Polished concrete, white walls, simple furniture and a large open kitchen act as a foil for the owner’s passion: Russian crafts. She has written several books about Russian craft and design and she sells the finds from her travels, including a large range of brightly painted Matryoshka dolls. The dishes are simple Japanese home cooking style, organic and mostly vegetarian (they will offer vegetarian substitutes if you ask). There are no English menus, but there are photos of the day’s lunch sets at the counter and a large selection of cakes and cookies in a sleek glass cabinet. Order and pay at the counter, then choose your seat.